American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Peaks above Chi Ghari Glacier and Shah Gol

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Peaks above Chi Ghari Glacier and Shah Gol. The Austrian couple, Rudolf and Helga Lindner, climbed first above the Chi Ghari Glacier. On August 4 they climbed Rahozon Zom North (21,332 feet; peak 398 on the Wala map) and on the 6th Rahozon Zom South (21,440 feet). Between the Chi Ghari and the Anoshah glaciers they climbed C1 (15,092 feet) on August 29 and C2 (14,173 feet) on August 26. Between Anoshah and Kach glaciers they climbed A2 (18,373 feet) and Kohe Anoshah (18,045 feet; Wala 383) a second ascent, both on August 10. In the Shah Gol region they ascended, on the ridge between the Pur Nishini and Shah Gol glaciers, P 5444 (17,864 feet) on August 19, and P 5730 (19,799 feet), P 6000 (19,685 feet) and P 5500 (18,045 feet) all three on August 20. On the south rim of the Shah Gol Glacier they climbed S7 (19,913 feet) on August 13, S6 (17,389 feet) and S5 (17,061 feet) on August 14, and S4 (c. 16,400 feet) on August 22. Aside from Kohe Anoshah, all were first ascents. There is some confusion about the Rahozon Zom summits. Along with a third summit, these two peaks appear on a sketch map by Agresti as Kohe Wakhan. Rahozon Zom North is on the Wala map numbered 399. Rahozon Zom South could be Wala 308. The French Grenoble Expedition(see below) claims the ascent of Kohe Wakhan just before the Lindners’ climbs. The Lindners found no traces of previous ascents. They have photographic proof of their ascents and built cairns. Possibly the French climbed a peak to the north or northwest, possibly Wala 400.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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