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Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Tirich Mir, Attempt from North

Tirich Mir, Attempt from North. The Fukuoka Mountaineering Association Expedition to Tirich Mir was composed of Daisuke Suematsu, leader, Isao Shinkai, Yasushi Matsumoto, Seiji Tsuruta, Shozo Sano, Tsuguo Tsuruhisa, Yasuzo Fukada, Tokachi Uemura, Keishi Iwamoto, Katsutoshi Ibeke, Tadashi Nagai, Shiro Ishizaki, Hironubu Hisama, Kiten Saida, Kunihiro Nogami, Yukuo Matsumoto and Yoshiaki Ohtsubo. With 208 porters and 93 pack animals, they may have been the largest expedition ever in the Hindu Kush. Originally they planned to climb the east ridge from the south side, but an English party was there and so they decided to attack from the north side. They left Chitral on June 25 and on July 2 reached Base Camp at 13,400 feet on the Tirich Glacier. After establishing Camp I on July 4 at 14,750 feet on the Lower Tirich Glacier, they got through a 2000-foot-high icefall at 16,750 feet, but the violent flow of the glacier made them give up. They then turned to the Upper Tirich Glacier. Camps were established as follows: I at 15,000 feet on July 10; II at 15,750 feet on July 12; III at 17,125 feet on July 16; IV at 19,250 feet on July 20; V at 20,450 feet on July 22; and VI at 21,800 feet on July 24. Summit attempts on July 25 and 30 both failed in bad weather. On August 3 Uemura, Iwamoto, Nagai, and Hisana got to the col at 23,625 feet, where they bivouacked. On the 4th, when they reached 25,000 feet, a big rock fell on them and Nagai’s left foot was so injured that he could not move unaided. The others decided to give up going for the summit. While they were descending with the injured man, Hisama slipped and fell 2000 feet towards the Lower Tirich side. Miraculously he stopped himself on the steep snow slope and climbed back to his friends. They all gave up the attempt and evacuated Base Camp on August 9.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.