American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Istor-o-Nal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Istor-o-Nal. The Kwansei Gakuin University expedition made an attempt on Istor-o-Nal. The leader was Akira Nomura and the other members were Yoshihiko Ogawa, Takashi Morimoto, Yasumasa Nakai, Koji Miyazaki and the Afghan liaison officer Khalid Latif Bajwa. They left Chitral on July 6 and were at Base Camp on the Tirich Glacier at 12,800 feet on July 14. On the southwest ridge they made the following camps: I (15,500 feet) on July 16, II (17,000 feet) on July 18, Temporary III (19,000 feet) on July 22, III (20,500 feet) on July 25, and IV (21,325 feet) on July 27. From Camp IV two climbers set out on the 28th for a summit attempt, which called for a bivouac. The next day they reached the Rock Pinnacle (c. 23,625 feet), although their altimeter showed only 6850 meters or 22,474 feet. One of the two was not feeling well when they got there. To make the final attempt to climb the highest peak, they decided on the 30th that they would have to climb back down first. While they were descending to Camp IV, at 3:50 Morimoto fell, probably because his crampon caught on a rock. He fell from 22,000 feet to the Nobaisum branch of the Upper Tirich Glacier. His body was not found even after a most thorough search.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

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