Thui II, Hindu Raj. The British Hindu Raj Expedition visited the Sheta Glacier above Lasht Yarkhun in northern Chitral in August. We bypassed the large icefall in the lower part of the glacier and established Base Camp at 15,000 feet. We attempted Thui II (21,401 feet), a strikingly isolated granite peak. From camp at 18,500 feet below the southeast ridge, we made an alpine-type assault on August 20 to 22. Rock climbing up to UIAA IV was encountered on the ridge. We bivouacked at 20,000 feet above the major difficulties, but bad weather forced a retreat from this point. We also made four first ascents: Pachen Zom (19,600 feet; northwest of Thui II) on August 15 by Robert J. Collister and Dr. Colin H. Taylor; P 17,500 on August 8 by Collister and Taylor; P 18,500 on August 15 by Christopher M. Wood and me; and P 18,000 on August 16 by Wood and me. The two last are near Thui II. Major Munawa Khan accompanied the expedition as liaison officer but did not climb. A full report appears in the Alpine Journal, 1970.

Richard J. Isherwood, Alpine Club