American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India, Garhwal, Chaturangi Glacier

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Chaturangi Glacier. An expedition sponsored by the Gangotri Glacier Exploration Committee, of which I am President, climbed an unnamed virgin peak (20,682 feet) in the Chaturangi region on October 7. The summit climbers were Dr. Swapan Roy Choudhuri, leader, Sujal Mukherjee, Amiya Mukherjee, Himadri Bhattacharjee, Asit Bose and Binit Das Gupta. The only other member was Biren Sarkar. They reached Gomukh (Gaumukh) on September 21 after a trek from Dharali. Following a three-day snowfall there, they moved out in deep new snow on the 25th and established Base Camp the next day at Nandanban (14,500 feet) after a gruelling slog. Advance Base Camp was placed on the way to Vasuki (September 29) and Camp I at Vasukital at 17,000 feet on October 2. They had to cut steps and fix ropes to descend to Vasukital (lake). The team reached the northern bank of the Chaturangi Glacier on October 4. Next day three went to find a route up an unnamed peak (21,900 feet), while the other four reconnoitered towards Khalipet. The first group crossed over three humps, but the peak remained elusive and was technically difficult. The other party reported dangerous snow conditions. Both groups therefore abandoned the idea of these mountains in favor of another unnamed peak, apparently the western peak (20,685 feet) of Chaturangi. On October 6 they moved camp 1000 feet higher. On the 7th they left for this new peak, crossed the third hump, then traversed the southeast face of the peak and gained the summit at noon.

Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club

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