Ali Ratni Tibba, Kulu. Our party consisted of Dave Nicol, my wife Marjorie Anne, Jim McArtney, Chris Radcliffe and me. From Advanced Base at 13,000 feet we climbed the whole of the route in two days, May 25 and 26, reaching the summit (18,013 feet) early on the second day. The difficulties were mostly on rock, sustained at UIAA V level, but the terrain on the whole route is classic alpine mixed climbing: steep rock walls separated by equally steep icefields. We bivouacked late on the first day at around 17,000 feet. The descent was made by rappel down the 5000-foot south face. Throughout, the rock is splendid: rough, large- grained granite. Rockfall was moderate, though the first 3000 feet of the route are objectively dangerous due to considerable ice and spindrift avalanches. We climbed the west ridge, which we gained by the prominent ice ramp which cuts across the foot of the west face. McArtney took a bad fall in the early stages and broke two ribs. He was evacuated for medical attention and was the only one who did not make the summit.

Fred Harper, Scottish Mountaineering Club