American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Kanjiroba Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Kanjiroba Himal. In the spring of 1969, following the lifting of the ban on climbing in Nepal, the undersigned took a further expedition to explore the northern side of the Kanjiroba Himal, much of which we had mapped on previous expeditions for publication in the Geographical Journal, Vol. 133, September, 1967. The members of this year’s group, aside from me, were Simon Brown, Charles Clarke, Peter Dean and Captain Dil Bahadur Karki, together with Sherpas Nima Dorje, Mingma Tsering, Passang Kami and Passang Tendi. We approached the mountains in April from Jumla and then by way of the Mugu Karnali to Dalphu on the Langu Khola. From this last village we followed the Langu upstream, making three bridges to avoid the difficult cliff sections, to the Pukchang Khola, which we had explored in 1964. A further three-mile journey with two additional bridges brought us to the point where the Kuka Khola joins the Langu. This side valley leads directly to the foot of the northern peak of the highest mountain of the group. Attempts on the northwest and northeast ridges were abandoned in favour of the technically easier southeast ridge which led to the southern and highest summit (22,580 feet). Here bad weather and the slightly early monsoon prevented a final assault. Much exploratory work was accomplished in this completely unknown area. At the end the party traversed the whole Langu gorge, returning across Dolpo to Jomosom in July.

John Tyson, Alpine Club

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