Asia, Nepal, Peak 29

Publication Year: 1970.

Peak 29. Osaka University made its third attempt to climb Peak 29. (The new altitude of this peak is now given as 24,652 feet, over 1000 feet lower than the previous altitude. — Editor.) The members were Senya Sumiyoshi, leader, Yasuo Tamai, Hideo Misawa, Daisuke Makino, Hiroshi Watanabe, Jiro Kuroda, Yoshihiko Kohda and Yoshiki Tanaka. The tenacious boys from the Osaka University Mountain Club appeared again on the eastern glacier of Peak 29. They had previously tried in 1961 from the west and in 1963 from the east. This time they were equipped with the newest and most efficient equipment but they were defeated at 24,100 feet by a steep ice face. They made the following camps: Base Camp at 13,450 feet on September 9; Camp I at 16,750 feet on September 27, Camp II at 18,375 feet on September 30 and Camp III at 19,350 feet on October 5, all on the south side of the east ridge; Camp IV at 20,000 feet on October 18, Camp V at 20,350 feet on October 19 and Camp VI at 22,475 feet on October 24. Kuroda and Kohda reached the high point on November 1. There was no place to bivouac on the last ice wall and they would have had to spend the night in hammocks. Some big crevasses lay across the route close to the top.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.