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Asia, Nepal, Attempt on Annapuran I

Attempt on Annapurna I. After an approach march of eight days from Pokhara, a strong German expedition led by Ludwig Greissl arrived at Base Camp at 14,100 feet on the West Annapurna Glacier. The other members of the party were Helmut Müller, Reinhold Obster, Erich Reissmüller, Pit Schubert, Uwe Kerner, Hans Reiter, Karl Winkler, and Adolf Hanke. After a comparatively snowless winter, the glaciers were in bad condition and very active. They were plagued by bad weather. Camp I was placed at 16,750 feet on April 9 and Camp II at 18,700 feet on April 16, after they bridged crevasses with poles. Between Camps II and III, which was established at 19,850 feet on April 22, there was a bottle-necked ice couloir, threatened by falling ice. Camp IV (May 3) at 21,325 feet and Camp V (May 7) at 23,125 feet, which was just below the summit of 23,430-foot Glacier Dome, were established along a line that ascended generally north to the main crest. From there the route was to follow the long east ridge. On May 9 Obster, Schubert and Winkler climbed east along the ridge from Glacier Dome to Roc Noir (24,650 feet). On May 12 Camp VI was established at 23,775 feet below Roc Noir, but frightful storms hit them for the next five days. In a break in the weather on the 18th Müller

and Kerner again climbed to the summit of Roc Noir to fix ropes, but on May 19 the bad weather returned. So late in the season, with such bad weather, it now became obvious that they were too exhausted to continue. All were back in Base Camp by May 22.