American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chilean and Argentine Pataognia, Paine Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Paine Group. A Czechoslovakian expedition from the city of Ostrava, composed of Zdeneck Vlc, leader, Peter Baudis, Leos Korka, Pavel Klimza, Miro Rozehal, Vaclan Sagan, Jiri Tomcala, Jaromir Volny and Ludwick Zahoransky, and reinforced by four Chileans, entered the Paine massif in February. Some unforeseen circumstances — illness, weather — prevented any success at the beginning of the expedition. The Cuerno Norte, or northern rock horn, of the Paine group repulsed several attempts. On February 13, Baudis, Klimza and Zahoransky made the first ascent of the south summit of Paine Chico (c. 8,300 feet). After previous exploration and attempts, an unnamed peak (c. 7500 feet) of the Olguín group was ascended on February 19 by Sagan, Tomcala and Volny. The proposed name is “Cerro Ostrava”. Finally, an ice peak (over 7,000 feet) in the Francés valley was climbed on February 21 by Horka, Klimza and the Chilean Gastón Oyarzún.

Hugo Vásquez L., Asociación Universitaria de Andinismo

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