American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Argentiana, Central Andes

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Central Andes. The Alpine Club of the Japan Defense Army University

sent Kazuo Asai as leader, Takashi Kawakami, climbing leader, Hiroshi Osuga, Mitsuaki Murata, Kazumi Taziri, Seijun Kimura, Chitoshi Ando and Shinichi Tamura to the central Andes. From Tupungato village they climbed to the military hut on the Río Tunuyán at 9400 feet, which they used for their base. Camps I (13,450 feet), II (13,800 feet) and III (16,750 feet) were established on December 25, 27 and 31, 1968. On January 2 two Japanese and Argentine Corporal Lucero ascended Cerro Negro (20,182 feet). An attempt on the east peak of Marmolejo failed. On January 30 Osuga, Tajiri, Kimura, Ando and Tamura climbed the Volcán Maipo (17,356 feet) via the north glacier. On February 4 Kimura and Ando made the second ascent of Cerro Amarillo del Maipo (14,961 feet). On February 5 Murata, Tajiri, Kimura and Ando made the first ascent of the west peak (16,273 feet) of E1 Gorro, while Kawakami, Osuga and Tamura made the first ascent of the east peak (16,221 feet) from the south glacier and east ridge. On February 9 Kawakami, Murata, Kimura and Ando made the first ascent of the north peak (16,733 feet) of Cerro de la Laguna, while Osuga, Tajiri and Tamura climbed the south peak (16,516 feet).

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

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