American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Yacuma Group, Cordillera Real

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Yacuma Group, Cordillera Real. Annibale Bonicelli was leader of an Italian expedition from Bergamo. Others were Rino Farina, Augusto Sugliani, Santino and Nino Calegari and Padre Giuseppe Vitali. They entered the Cordillera Real from Coocó and placed Base Camp on July 19 at 15,400 feet on the shore of Chearcocha below Pico del Norte and Illampu. From Camp II in the Yacuma group they ascended the still unclimbed peaks of the massif, which lies between Ancohuma and Illampu. Numbering the peaks from south to north, they first climbed Yacuma I (19,587 feet), the southernmost, on July 27. The climb was made on the good reddish granite of the northeast face by both Calegaris, Farina and Padre Vitali. All six climbed Yacuma II (19,536 feet) on July 28. They ascended Yacuma III on the 29th and Yacuma IV (19,849 feet) on the 31st. They did not repeat the climb of what they called Yacuma V, but which is often called P 6056 or Huayna Illampu, which the Japanese had climbed in 1964 (A.A.J., 1965, 14:2, p. 455). Instead the Calegari brothers climbed a tower which looked like the Dent du Géant between Yacumas IV and V. The whole party made the third ascent of the northwest ridge of Ancohuma (21,095 feet). On August 10 the Calegari brothers climbed virgin Ancopiti V (19,157 feet), which they described as “an imposing rock tower that culminates in a sharp triangular tooth of ice, ornamented by cornices.”

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