American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Mururata, South Ridge

  • Notes
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Mururata, South Ridge. In late June John Hudson and Roger Whewell

made the first ascent of the south ridge of Mururata, approaching from the Bolsa Negra road in one day. The climb then took a day and a quarter over extremely unstable snow and slate. Hudson led every pitch on what he later described as the most perilous climb he had ever done. The rock and snow were too dangerously loose for retreat. On the summit (1 8,947 feet) they found a huge Anglo-Saxon obscenity trodden into the snow by Elspeth Whewell, Keith Miller and me, who had climbed the unpleasant regular route. They said we had taken the word out of their mouths.

Roman Laba

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