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South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo Norte

Alpamayo Norte. In less than 24 hours after leaving Calgary on May 4, Hugh Considine, Peter Fuhrmann, Stephen Herrero and I had all our equipment in Huaraz and were gently acclimatizing in Monterrey. We took advantage of the new road to Palo Seco, east of Alpamayo and went thence to Safuna, a flood-control station near Alpamayo. By May 13 we had a cache on the north col at 18,225 feet, but repeated storms helped us decide to go back to Hotel Monterrey. We returned to the north col on May 25. The north arête was in excellent hard-snow condition and we reached the north summit during a storm on the 27th. We never glimpsed the higher south summit. The descent involved a bivouac dug into one of the fantastic ridge cornices on “the world’s most beautiful mountain.”

Philippe Delesalle, Alpine Club of Canada