American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Attempt on Chopicalqui

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Attempt on Chopicalqui. Janine Carrette and I were joined in Huaraz by the Peruvian Alcides Ames for an attempt on Chopicalqui. We climbed to Base Camp at the end of the moraine at the foot of the Chopicalqui Glacier on August 5. On the 9th from Camp II in the col between Chopicalqui and Huascarán, we three started up the ridge. Trail-breaking in breakable crust was taxing. At 20,350 feet, below the little point before the summit we were stopped by an ice wall, the upper lip of a schrund. The next day Mile. Carrette, porter Felipe Mautino and I returned but ice pickets would not hold and we gave up the attempt.

Henriette Lecumberri, Club Alpin Français

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