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South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán, Pisco, Attempt on Huandoy

Huascarán, Pisco, Attempt on Huandoy. On June 22 the German Alfred Sänger and I left Camp III at 17,4000 for the summit of Huascarán. The day before we had tried to reach the top by way of the Garganta but had to give up because of deep snow. On our second attempt we used the route the Canadians had just climbed, through the northwest face near the west ridge. There we found firm snow and progressed to the summit cone. At 5 P.M. we began to dig a snow cave at 21,800 feet. The night was slightly stormy. We reached the summit at 8 A.M. on June 23 in perfect weather. We descended to Camp III by way of the Garganta and reached Camp III at 4 P.M. On July 5 Albert Malnati, Austrian, and Ruedi Gassmann, Edmund Haas and I, Swiss, reached the col west of Pisco by the southern glacier to camp at 17,500 feet. At 9 A.M. on the 6th we all reached the summit of Pisco, which we measured at only 5680 meters (18,635 feet) and not 6000 meters as previously believed. With Haas on July 9 I began to move material to Huandoy’s east glacier. On the 10th we made Camp I at 17,450 feet. The next day, after fixing 500 feet of rope on the slope below the col, we reached 18,700 feet. On the 12th we hoped to place camp on the col at 19,000 feet. Some 150 feet below the col, while traversing steep ice, I fell 25 feet but was caught on the rope. I sprained my right ankle but could descend to Camp I. On July 17 and 18, I was finally able to descend to the Llanganuco.

Emil Meier, Schweizer Alpen Club