Mount Assiniboine, East Face. On August 31 and September 1, Bill Davidson and I made the first ascent of the east face of Assiniboine. The route follows a prominent rib straight up to the summit and avoids the iced walls which impressed Chris Jones. The rock is average for the Rockies, some very rotten and some reasonable. There were several good pitches of about F5. Few objective dangers threatened on the rib, apart from two precariously balanced 15-foot ice mushrooms. The glacier at the bottom of the face is the worst I have been on in Canada and so axes are recommended. The route is more enjoyable than the northeast ridge except for a couple of hours of bad brush from the Wonder Pass trail to the head of Lake Gloria.

Archie Simpson, Calgary Mountain Club