American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Northern Selkirks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Northern Selkirks. Last August, Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert, Bill Lang, Eric Rayson, Doug Tompkins, and I helicoptered to the Cairn Hut in the Northern Selkirks for an eleven-day rest. The weather was so miserable we were forced by sheer boredom onto the surrounding peaks. Yvon and Doug managed to 3rd class Little Black Friar, and put in an all-ice route to the left of Mount Sir Sandford’s west ridge during their “off” days. TM, Bill, Eric, and I wasted two “rest” days attempting the north ridge of Mount Sir Sandford. We were turned back two pitches from the summit cornice by poor ice conditions. We traversed to the regular west ridge route and returned to the hut. The next day dawned clear and bright; we took full advantage of the warm sun—we rested. The weather for the remaining days was consistently poor, spoiling our relaxation, and driving us to the brink—rock rolling. The helicopter rescued us at the end of our eleventh day.

Don Lauria

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