American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Valhalla Range, Southern Selkirks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Valhalla Range, Southern Selkirks. The Kootenay Mountaineering Club established a climbing camp at Mulvey Meadows (6600 feet) from August 1 to 8. Dunnage, food and prefabricated hut sections were flown in from Slocan by helicopter. We erected the hut and climbed all the major peaks of the area. First ascents were the main (west) peak of Mount Prestley by the east ridge (Iaian Martin, Frank Tarver and myself), central peak of Prestley via the west ridge (Gerry Brown, Bob Dean and David Parfitt), the Bat via the northwest corner of the west ridge (Marianne Trembley and John Wurflinger). New routes were Gladshiem southeast ridge (Eric Lance and Wurflinger), Gladshiem south face (Tom Chamberlin and myself), Gimli (formerly Gimli II) north ridge (Brown and Tarver). The Valhallas offer pleasant fourth and fifth class climbing with many fine routes yet to be done. There are opportunities for long and difficult aid routes, particularly on Dag (formerly Gimli I) and the eastern satellite peaks of Gladshiem, which rise 4000 feet from Mulvey valley below the headwall separating the valley from the meadows. Thanks to the initiative of the KMC in establishing a trail, trail and road maintenance and building a hut, this area is now quite accessible. Interested persons should consult the KMC or the hut custodian (Bob Dean, Crescent Valley, British Columbia) for information on the area, the route in or use of the hut.

Peter Renz

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