Truce Mountain and the “Horseshoe Peaks”, Truce Group, Purcells. On July 20 Bruce Beck, Jack Wells, and I left our car, some miles up the Jumbo Creek road, and packed over 7500-foot Jumbo Pass into the valley of the south terminal fork of Glacier Creek. Following a route I had flagged in August of 1968, we crossed the creek and climbed up to a high camp at about 6800 feet near the north lateral moraine of the north fork of the East Truce Glacier. The next day we ascended the glacier to the top of its cleaver and then to a 9850-foot col on the southeast corner of the “Horseshoe”. From here we proceeded to make first ascents of one 10,100-foot peak and four 10,300-foot peaks around the “Horseshoe”. The north snow ridge of impressive 10,650-foot Truce Mountain also beckoned us, and so at eight p.m. we were the second party on its small snow summit. (We found the 53-year-old record of the MacCarthy-Kain first-ascent party.) We were back in camp 4½ hours later. The next day Jack made solo first ascents of an 8700-foot double summit and an impressive 9100-foot spire, north and west of camp respectively. On July 23 we packed back to Jumbo Pass where we camped before dropping down to the car. A complete account of all the climbs will appear in the Canadian Alpine Journal.
Curt Wagner, Simians