North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Climbs in the Western Cariboos

Publication Year: 1970.

Climbs in the Western Cariboos. In August Alex Fabergé, Don Hubbard, Linnea Stewart, Art Wilder, my wife Nancy, our one-year-old daughter Mai-Britt and I helicoptered into a 5700-foot Base Camp at Tranquility Lake, three miles east of 9800-foot Mount Quanstrom, the highest peak of the large glaciated area just west of the Raush River. We made the second ascent of Quanstrom on August 6 via the northeast buttress and east ridge. Except for a short ice climb on the buttress this was the same route followed by the first-ascent party of Campbell and Bimm on August 3, 1967 (according to a message found in the summit cairn). The next day Hubbard, Stewart and Wilder made the first ascent of Mount Nicholl (8400 feet), two miles southeast of Quanstrom. Several storms later, on August 10, we reached the foresummit of 9200-foot Mount Columbiad (three miles northeast of Quanstrom) via the east ridge and north buttress, but hail prevented completion of the ascent. The same day, Alex soloed 7700-foot Mount Gemini, overlooking Gemini Lakes, part of the east retaining wall of the Pieroway Glacier. On August 13, Stewart, Hubbard and Fabergé climbed 8400-foot Mount Ardan, four miles south of Base Camp, while the two Arts made a grand tour of the remaining peaks of the Pieroway Glacier drainage. Progressing clockwise around the head of the glacier, we made the first ascents of Mount Pieroway (9100 feet), Stone Hill (8300 feet), unnamed (8400 feet), Mount Maston (8500 feet) and unnamed (8600 feet).

Arthur Maki