Nusatsum, Bella Coola Region, Coast Range. In June Ed McClanahan and 1 made a new route on Nusatsum. (First ascent, 1952, by W. and D. Long, R. Skinner.) We ascended the 6500-foot-high north couloir, 4000 feet of it ice with a tricky little icefall in it. The top 1400 feet of the mountain were delightful, easy rock climbing. We had tried this 8444-foot giant before. In the fall of 1968 we were mercilessly beaten back by miserable storms and crevasses. Nusatsum had been previously climbed two or three times via an easterly route solo by a most likeable garage mechanic, Frank Cooke, the only true mountaineer of the Bella Coola Valley.

Louis Stur