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North America, Canada, Coast Range, Peaks East of Head of Butte Inlet

Peaks East of Head of Bute Inlet, Coast Range. Jerry Calbaum, Frank Slater, Nick Dodge, and I landed at Icewall Lake on August 8, after first making an airdrop on a small glacier 3½ miles to the southwest. Our objective was the unclimbed peaks surrounding the two forks of the Orford River. This unexplored region lies south of the Southgate River and east of Bute Inlet. We fortunately found an access to the drop by climbing up the valley of the first creek emptying into Icewall Creek from the west. Base Camp was set up in the large saddle above the south fork of the Orford River. Extremely stormy weather plagued us during our eleven-day sojourn, with only one cloudless day allotted us. In spite of the weather, we all made four first ascents. “Nanitch” (7750 feet), a peak just to the north of Base Camp was ascended by a broad snow slope. We next climbed “Mamook” (7700 feet), lying to the south of camp, by the north shoulder. The third peak climbed was “Kalaka” (7800 feet). This peak, just to the north of “Nanitch” was ascended by the south ridge. Our final ascent was of “Tolo” (8100 feet), a large peak two miles west of “Nanitch” by the east ridge.

James Petroske, M.D.