Mount Logan, Second Ascent of Catenary Ridge. The members of the Gifu Mountaineering Association expedition were Shigeru Itoh, leader, Keisuke Horii, Toshikatsu Tsuchida, Yumihiko Tanaka, Yoshihisa Kato, and Tsugio Suzuki. On May 21 they were flown to the Logan Glacier from Kluane Lake and established Base Camp at 7700 feet. Reconnaissance was made directly up the ridge of Catenary Peak from May 22 to 26 but was given up because of ice blocks and knife-edges. On May 27 all turned to the spur of the peak between Catenary Peak and McArthur. (For more details, see account of first-ascent party, Ingalls, Bleser, Connary, Given, Plummer, Schmechel, 1967. See A.A.J., 1968, 16:1, pp. 51 to 55. –Editor.) They fixed over 1000 feet of rope, climbed steep rock and snow, including a 1650-foot ice wall and established three camps between May 27 and June 5 to meet the main ridge. Camp II was on Catenary Peak at 13,775 feet, above 2½ pitches of fixed rope. Camp III was placed at 12,150 feet after descending the ice ridge to the col on June 11. From the 12th to the 15th the knife-edged ridge and crevassed area were climbed, using 1500 feet of fixed rope. They reached 14,100 feet where they made a snow cave for Camp IV. It stormed at Camp IV on June 16 and 17. Horii and Tanaka were appointed as the attack party with Tsuchida and Suzuki in support. All four left on the 18th. A 250-foot corniced snow wall was climbed with hard work owing to strong wind. They were troubled by soft snow and crevasses. They fixed 920 feet of rope and reached a rock pinnacle at 17,400 feet. The attack party bivouacked there, and the support party went down to Camp IV. On June 19 the attack party left the bivouac at two a.m. and zigzagged among crevasses to reach the east peak (19,750 feet) at 9:45. They descended the ridge, passed the knife-edge and at 4:25 p.m. stood on the main peak (19,850 feet). The support party followed the attack party and reached the east peak. In the white night, both parties returned to Camp IV. The party was flown to Kluane Lake on July 2 and 3.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.