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North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Ellingwood, North Face; Fremont, West Face; Sacajawea, West Face; Arrowhead, South Face; Raid Peak, East Face; Raid Peak, East Face; Peak 365, East Face

Ellingwood, North Face; Fremont, West Face; Sacajawea, West Face; Arrowhead, South Face; Raid Peak, East Face; Peak 365, East Face. Fred Beckey and I completed four new routes in the impressive Fremont Peak area. On August 25 we climbed the north face of Ellingwood Peak. This attractive route is most obvious when viewed from the northwest in late afternoon as it follows the arête which divides the sunlight from shadow on the right side of the face. The arête is most easily gained from a hollowed-out area just right of it and a few hundred feet above the bottom of the face. A ramp from the lower part of the hollow leads onto the arête, which we followed for several interesting pitches on good rock to an easy slope just below the summit. (NCCS III, F6.) The next day we climbed the massive west face of Fremont Peak, a half-mile-wide array of buttresses, towers, chimneys and faces. The southernmost buttress of significance is a steep, pedestal-like formation. We traversed beneath the pedestal from the col southwest of Fremont’s summit, staying as high as possible. After some scrambling and a fifth-class pitch our route crossed into the gully left of the pedestal and followed chimneys to the notch behind the pedestal. Here we crossed to the right side of the ridge and scrambled a few hundred feet to gain the ridge crest by which we got to the summit with only two more technical pitches. (NCCS III, F7.) We moved camp farther north into the Titcomb Lakes basin. Cool, unstable weather caused us to continue to seek out one-day climbs. On August 30 we settled on the west face of the south peak of Sacajawea. This face is characterized by a steep “wishbone” arête, the blank nature of which discouraged a direct ascent at that time. Fred exhibited his mastery of route finding by ferreting out a route which cleverly avoided all but the most minor difficulties. The route began in the stream bed coming from the giant cleft between Sacajawea and its south peak. After following the stream a few hundred feet, we diagonaled up and right, crossing the main west ridge at a point 200 to 300 feet above a

north-facing pocket which held a snow patch. After a couple of pitches on a minor ridge south of the main one, we crossed back and finished with several on the north side of the main ridge. The route is marked with cairns at key points. We descended by traversing the east side to the Helen-Sacajawea col. (NCCS III, F5.) Finally we moved to a camp above Upper Jean Lake at the base of Mount Arrowhead. The south face is fluted with several chimneys, most of which should make interesting routes. On September 1 we picked the central one, which ends a few feet west of the summit. The first two pitches were the most challenging with the second containing the crux: an F8-move up a jam-crack after we left the main dihedral via a friction traverse to the left. (NCCS IV, F8.) Joined by Gordon McFeters, we did two new routes in the Mount Bonneville area. On September 6 we walked two miles up the scenic, lake-filled basin to the east face of Raid Peak. A direct route on the face would have required a fiercer effort than we were willing to put forth that day. Thus we decided on a ramp-like groove which diagonaled up and left from the base towards the notch south of the summit. After several leads of easy climbing on loose rock we met the crux: a 130-foot overhang-studded dihedral which offered superb free climbing and required some 20 pitons and nuts. Two easier pitches led to the notch, where the problems ended. (NCCS III, F7.) The most spectacular face visible in the basin is the east face of Peak 365 (Bonney), which rises 2000 feet above a small lake between Mount Geikie and Raid Peak. On the left edge was a chimney-gully system, the remnant of a dike, which led to low-angle broken rock on the upper south face. A 130-foot vertical chimney appeared to be the major obstacle. On September 7 we started up. The chimney was an enjoyable F7 and well protected; the rest was much easier, except for hauling a heavy bag, which slowed us so much that a bivouac was required. (NCCS III, F7.)

Patrick Callis