Mount Moran, Direct North Face. Because of a lack of equipment, the party which made the first ascent of the north face of Mount Moran in 1962 avoided the chimneys which lead directly to the north summit and form the most obvious line on the face. In July Peter Habeler and I followed them to the summit, starting from the middle of the left triple glacier. Although the climb is situated in beautifully alpine surroundings and is on a very steep wall, it cannot be recommended due to the loose nature of the rock. NCCS III or IV, F8.