American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, McCain's Pillar

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

McCain’s Pillar. For nearly a generation climbers have known of the sharp, block-shaped pinnacle lurking near the base of the north ridge, or more precisely, the Crescent Arête of Mount Owen. But it was not until September 3 that it was climbed by Rick Reese and John Whitesel. The Owen-Teewinot cirque served as the approach to the ridge north of the pillar. The ascent was via the furrows and cracks in the east face to a slanting shelf below the final vertical 70-foot south face. Thirty feet of free climbing, with a bolt for protection, permitted the climbers to reach an aid crack which was ascended to a small ledge via tied-off pitons. A final free overhanging face took them to the summit. Was this the last of the Teton pinnacles to be climbed? Has Ellingwood’s ‘inexhaustible studio’ been exhausted? NCCS I, F7, A3.

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