American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Buckeye Mountain

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Buckeye Mountain. This small peak lies on the south-southeast ridge from Whitehorse Mountain, about a half mile distant. Rich Carlstad and I made its first ascent on August 9, as a prelude to our fifth ascent of Mount Bullon the following day. From Darrington, we used the Squire Creek approach, reaching a high camp above timber line about a mile south of the peak, and a quarter of a mile below the 5200-foot notch on the ridge crest that gives access to the Bullon region. From camp we traversed north past the 1956 jet crash, keeping on the east slopes of the divide, and climbed to the peak’s east ridge, gaining the ridge about 100 feet from the top via a short Class-IV chimney. This is a distinctive pinnacle when viewed from Whitehorse, Bullon, and Jumbo.

Kenn Carpenter

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