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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Attempt of South Buttress

Mount McKinley, Attempt on South Buttress. Our expedition was made up of John Link, Filip Sokol, James Sharp, A1 Gunter, Francis Raley, Nels Niemi and me. We landed in early May on the Kahiltna Glacier, walked and packed loads in eight days to the col at 12,500 feet on the southeast side of the South Buttress. Then we spent two days on the ice slope trying to get up without fixed ropes before we gave it up. We descended to the Kahiltna, crossed Kahiltna Pass, went down the Peters Glacier, crossed over to Clear Creek and eventually walked out to Wonder Lake.

STEPHEN Pomerance, Harvard Mountaineering Club