American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Ascents in the Quimsa Cruz

  • Feature Article
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1970

Ascents in the Quimsa Cruz

Evelio Echevarría

AS PROMISED in the previous issue of this Journal, a survey of ascents in the Quimsa Cruz range of Bolivia is offered here.

1. Nevado Jachacunocollo, 5950 m. 19,521 ft.

1. T. Herzog, C. Seelig, 1911. (note: climbers did not reach the top, but only a shoulder some 65 ft. lower).

2. W. Kühm, J. Prem, 9.18.1939. (note: this ascent is at times claimed as first).

3. H. Imai, H. Ono, A. Ogino, T. Terauchi, 6.18.1968.

2. Nevado Huaynacunocollo, (Pico Grillo), 5850 m. 19,193 ft.

1. W. Kühm, J. Prem, 9. 1939.

3. Nevado León Jihuaña, ca. 5800 m. 19,029 ft.

1. P. Dauelsberg, C. Wlack, 1952 (?).

4. Nevado El Gigante (Gigante Grande), 5750 m. 18,865 ft.

1. Bolivian climbers under R. Zalles, before 1950 (see below).

2. Mexican-Bolivian expedition, 1964 (see below).

5. Nevado Altarani (San Juan), 5750 m. 18,865 ft.

1. W. Kühm, J. Prem, 9.11.1939.

6. unnamed, 5750 m. 18,865 ft.

1. T. Hasegawa, M. Kojima, 6.11.1968.

7. unnamed, 5730 m. 18,799 ft.

1. S. Abe, H. Imai, H. Ono, A. Ogino, 6.10.1968.

8. Nevado de Atoroma, 5700 m. 18,700 ft.

1. Perowitsch, J. Prem, 8.7.1928.

2. Mexican-Bolivian expedition, 1964 (see below).

9. Nevado San Felipe, 5700 m. 18,700 ft.

1. T. Hasegawa, H. Imai, A. Martínez, 6.5.1968.

2. S. Abe, A. Ogino, 6.6.1968.

10. unnamed, 5680 m. 18,635 ft.

1. T. Hasegawa, H. Imai, A. Martínez, 6.5.1968.

2. S. Abe, A. Ogino, T. Terauchi, 6.6.1968.

3. M. Kozai, Kojima, 6.7.1968.

11. Nevado Inmaculado, 5675 m. 18,618 ft.

1. T. Herzog, C. Seelig, 9.1911.

12. unnamed, 5650 m. 18,537 ft.

1. M. Kozai, T. Terauchi, 6.9.1968.

13. Nevado San Lorenzo, 5600 m. 18,373 ft.

1. H. Imai, H. Ono, 6.7.1968.

14. Ninacollo Grande, 5600 m. 18,373 ft.

1. E. de la Motte, J. Torres, before 1946.

15. Cerro Mamani, 5570 m. 18,274 ft.

1. (?) W. Kühm, J. Prem, 9.11.1939.

16. Cerro Carnaval (Cerro Aguilar, Vilacollo), 5450 m. 17,881 ft.

1. T. Herzog, 9.1911.

17. Cerro Yunque, 5400 m. 17,717 ft.

1. E. Overlack, A. Schulze, 1915.

2. F. Ahlfeld, E. Gunther, 5.1924.

3. E. and R.Whewell, 6.14.1968.

4. J. Knott, R. Knott, P. Borutzki, E. Otto, P. Schleyer, H. Ziegenhardt, M. Zimmer, 6.30.1969. (note: The Whewells called this peak “Pusi Puntas.”)

18. Cerro Chancapiña, 5375 m. 17,633 ft.

1. H. Hoek, 1.12.1904.

2. T. Herzog, C. Seelig, 9.22.1911.

19. Piedra de los Inc as, 5350 m. 17,553 ft.

1. S. Shepard, early June, 1968.*

20. unnamed, 5300 m. 17,389 ft.

1. P. Borutzki, J. Knott, E. Otto, P. Schleyer, H. Ziegenhardt, M. Zimmer, 7.3.1969. (note: this peak seems to correspond to Cerro Agujón).

21. Cerro Pireo, 5300 m. 17,389 ft.

1. (?) T. Herzog, C. Seelig, 1911.

22. unnamed, 5280 m. 17,323 ft.

1. E. Otto, M. Zimmer, 7.4.1969. (note: this peak seems to correspond to Cerro Torreni de Catalina).

23. unnamed, 5250 m. 17,225 ft.

1. P. Schleyer, H. Ziegenhardt, 7.5.1969.

24. unnamed, 5240 m. 17,192 ft.

1. E. and R.Whewell, 6.13.1968.

2. P. Borutzki, J. Knott, R. Knott, E. Otto, P. Schleyer, H. Ziegenhardt, M. Zimmer, 6.30.1969. (note: The Whewells called this peak “Pico de Vientos”.)

25. unnamed, 5240 m. 17,192 ft.

1. P. Schleyer, H. Ziegenhardt, 7.5.1969.

26. Cerro Trinidad, 5200 m. 17,061 ft.

1. (?) T. Herzog, C. Seelig, 1911.

27. Cerro Cometa, 5200 m. 17,061 ft.

1. (?) T. Herzog, 1911.

28. unnamed, ca. 17,000 ft.

1. E. and R.Whewell, 6.19.1968.

(note: name given was “Cumbre”, but it was not stated if this is local or official name).

Other ascents: data about two other expeditions is not complete or clear. A Bolivian expedition of the Club Andino Boliviano visited the range in the late 1940’s and climbed some ten peaks in the Gigante Grande and Laramcota groups. Peaks climbed by this group include with certainty Gigante Grande itself and “Princesa Blanca” (not located). No report has been published and I know this information only through conversation with mountaineers. Leader of this Bolivian group was René Zalles.

A Mexican expedition from Puebla also travelled to this range in 1964; reinforced by some Bolivians, made the ascent of three peaks (AAJ 1965, p. 191). These were believed to be first ascents, but recently it was reported by Bolivians that at least two of the peaks correspond to Gigante Grande and Atoroma (numbers 4 and 8, of this list). The third peak has not been located.

Finally, a number of peaks located near the many mining areas of this range, may have been ascended by local miners, employees or engineers (i.e. Cerro Pireo, Cerro Cometa, Cerro Trinidad, etc.).

*The Germans in 1969 confused Piedra de los Incas and Torreni de Catalina (22). The former lies about 2 miles east of the latter.

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