American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Outer Mongolia, Mongolian Altai

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Mongolian Altai. Interesting information has come to us from Ichiro Yoshizawa about a Japanese expedition which climbed in early August in the Mongolian Altai Range. Unfortunately the Editor does not have adequate maps to check spellings of peaks and altitudes. The Japanese leader of the eight-man group was Shigeo Ozawa. The leader of the seven Mongols was Zorick, who is credited with the first ascent of Mount Fittenohra (15,266 feet), said to be the highest in the country. From Ulan Gom in western Outer Mongolia, the group jeeped to Birchil (6300 feet) at the junction of the Harhilar and Togen rivers. They made Base Camp at Bohchin zun Sarah (8850 feet) in the Harhilar group of six peaks. Harhilar I (12,959 feet) was first climbed by a Mongolian party in 1959. All climbed Ulan Harhilar (11,646 feet). They then divided into two groups. One party climbed Olympia Peak (12,074 feet), where they reached the glacier at 10,350 feet. The others on August 7 climbed Harhilar I, II and III (12,959, 13,091 and 12,631 feet). Peak I had previously been given as 4116 meters (13,503 feet) but a more recent survey has reduced this figure and Peak II was found to be the highest in the massif.

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