American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Shah-i-Anjuman (Peak X)

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Shah-i-Anjuman (Peak X). The Ogaki expedition was headed by Yoshihiko Muto and consisted of Sakio Takagi, Yasua Takagi, Seiyo Hayashi, Osamu Sakuma, Susumu Inukai, Nobuo Kawai, Dr. Kosei Segawa and Yoshio Ando. After crossing the Anjuman Pass to Anjuman, they reconnoitered the Darrah-i-Pagar and placed a camp in the Jorjo valley, a side valley of the Pagar. On June 29 Sakuma, Inukai and Kawai made the first ascent of P 5050 (16,568 feet), which they called Koh-i-Stara. Others reconnoitered the Serton valley, where they saw Peak X, which they have called Shah-i-Anjuman. A camp was placed on July 4 at the end of the Nogorgai Glacier at the head of the Serton valley. On the 6th they reached the south col of Shah-i-Anjuman and got to 17,000 feet on the west ridge. By the 14th the upper part was reconnoitered and rope fixed on the central rock wall. On July 17 Inukai and Kawai made the first ascent of Shah-i-Anjuman (19,770 feet) from Camp II at 17,000 feet. On July 21 a high camp was placed on the upper Nogorgai Glacier. On July 22 at the head of the Serton valley Y. Takagi, Hayashi, Segawa, Inukai and Kawai made the first ascent of P 5585 (18,323 feet), which they called Koh-i-Ogaki.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

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