American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Koh-e-Bandaka

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Koh-e-Bandaka. The Aichigakuin University Expedition climbed Koh-e- Bandaka (22,451 feet). Masami Namikawa was leader, Takuro Sakai headed scientific research and Michio Yuasa was climbing leader. Others were Hajime Hanamura, Yoshitaka Kuromiya, Norikazu Ono, Shuji Asai, Kazuyuki Ito, Masando Ito and Kenji Ito. They arrived on July 18 at Keran, having taken the northern route from Kabul to avoid troubles, including floods. Because they were already some twenty days late, they gave up their original objective, the east face, for the normal west or southwest route. Base Camp was at 14,450 feet and Advance Base at 17,000 feet. Yuasa and Kazuyuki Ito went up the rock wall and reached the southwest ridge, the normal route. Camp I at 18,700 feet was made on July 24. All relayed to Camp II at 19,850 feet on the 27th. Kuromiya, Ono and M. Ito climbed upward the next day, reaching the knife-edge at two p.m. They bivouacked at four. On July 29 Ono remained at the bivouac because of an upset stomach, but the other two set out, reaching the summit at 12:30. On the descent Kuromiya disappeared at about 22,000 feet. Ito was ahead, Kuromiya having unroped from him. Rescue operations were in vain. It is probable that Kuromiya fell to the Sakhi Glacier. The expedition joined the Rissho University party at the junction of the Iblar and Sakhi valleys and traveled back to Kabul with them by the northern route.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

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