American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Afghanistan, Attempt on Koh-e-Iblar, Near Koh-e-Bandaka

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Attempt on Koh-e-Iblar, near Koh-e-Bandaka. The Rissho University party consisted of Kyoichi Mochizuki, leader, Hideo Suzuki, Hiroshi Morita, Kikuo Goto, Toshio Mochizuki, Meiji Terada and Masaoki Ogawa. After leaving Kabul on July 10, they traveled up the Panjshir, over Anjuman Pass, through Anjuman to Keran. On July 19 they moved to the junction of the Iblar and Sakhi Darrahs and the next day placed Base Camp at 12,500 feet near Lake Iblar. Camp I was at 13,125 feet at the far end of the lake, which proved difficut to pass on its western shore. Camp II was pitched on July 25 to 15,100 feet. Suzuki and Goto left on July 26 in a summit attempt on P 5638 or Koh-e-Iblar (18,498 feet), which failed well below the summit. After evacuating their camps they heard of the accident to the Aichi University party, waited for them at the river junction and traveled back to Kabul with them.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

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