Istor-o-Nal. The Japan Women’s West Asian Expedition climbed in Turkey, Iran and Pakistan. The ladies were Kyoko Sato, leader, Setsuko Watanabe, Hisae Izumi and Hiroko Ashiya. After climbing various peaks, including Ararat and Demavend, they left Chitral on June 29 and got to Base Camp on the Tirich Glacier at 14,600 feet on July 6. Camp I (17,400 feet) was pitched on July 10, Camp II (20,350 feet) on July 22 and Camp III (21,325 feet) on the main ridge on July 26. They bivouacked at 23,625 feet under the white peak on the 28th. They reached the summit (24,275 feet) on the 29th at seven p.m. The north peak was separated from them by a deep gap. They bivouacked again 150 feet below the summit and reached Camp III the next night. The route taken was mostly the same as that of the Americans Murphy and Mutch in 1955. (See A.A.J., 1956, 10:1, pp. 66-74.)
Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.