American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan or Afghan Frontier, Hindu Kush, Langar Zom, Main Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Langar Zom, Main Peak. The Gakuyukai Alpine Club of Waseda University climbed at the head of the Ushko Glacier. Tanenori Tachibana was the leader and members were Riki Suzuki and Katsushi Noguchi; Captain Nasib was the liaison officer. After leaving Chitral on July 7, they approached via Koghoz, Reshun and Shagram and pitched Base Camp at 13,125 feet on the Ushko Glacier. Camp I (14,100 feet) was established on August 2, Camp II (14,750 feet) on August 5 and Camp III (16,750 feet) on August 10. On the 12th they climbed the nameless 5600-meter (18,373-foot) peak northeast of Langar Zom Main on the main ridge between Langar and Urgend. After bad weather, on August 16 they dug a snow cave east of the main peak of Languar Zom at 20,350 feet. They made the second ascent of Langur Zom’s main peak (23,019 feet) on August 18.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

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