American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan or Afghan Frontier, Hindu Kush, Pegish Zom and Noghor Zom

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Pegish Zom and Noghor Zom. The expedition of the Rottenmann Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) was composed of Hans Gassner, leader, Sepp Peer and Fritz Iglar. They left Chitral on July 10 and Uzhnu on the 15th to get to Base Camp at 13,500 feet on the Kotgaz Glacier on July 16. With two high camps, the three climbed two peaks on the frontier with the Wakhan at the end of the Pegish valley: Pegish Zom II (20,233 feet) on June 25 by the steep south face and corniced west ridge and Pegish Zom I (20,568 feet) on July 26. From Base Camp they climbed peaks on the southern rim of the Kotgaz Glacier: Noghor Zom I (19,508 feet) on August 1 by all three via the east face and north ridge with two high camps; Noghor Zom II (18,375 feet) on August 2 by Peer and Iglar (both first ascents); and Chikar Zom (17,340 feet) also on August 2 by Peer and Iglar (second ascent).

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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