American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan or Afghan Frontier, Hindu Kush, Kohe Lakush, Wakhan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Kohe Lakhsh, Wakhan. An expedition from Southern France (Lyon and Nice) was led by Louis Dubost, who was accompanied by his wife, Bernard Denjoy and his wife, Paul Gendre and his wife, Mlle Suzanne Valentini, Mlle Bernard, Louis Gevril, Jacques Brugirard. Contrary to their expectations, they got a permit for the Wakhan. They left Kabul on August 1 and got to Langar on the 3rd. Base Camp, at the foot of Kohe Lakhsh (19,984 feet on the Wala map), was established on August 5 at 13,950 feet on the glacier at the head of the Lakhsh valley. They placed a high camp in a col on the north ridge on the 7th. On August 8 Messieurs Bubost, Gendre and Bruginard made the first ascent of Kohe Lakhsh. The second ascent was made on the 10th by Mlle Valentini and Gevril. In both cases they had to bivouac on the descent. The climb was mixed snow and rock and very difficult. By reason of its difficulty the peak had been unclimbed, although it is the most important summit in the region (Keshnikhan valley on the west and Shakhwar valley on the east, both much climbed in and explored).

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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