Asia, Pakistan or Afghan Frontier, Hindu Kush, Qala Panja, Wakhan

Publication Year: 1969.

Qala Panja, Wakhan. A French expedition entered the Qala Panja valley, previously untouched by climbers. The glaciers descend to 10,000 feet from two glacial plateaus at 16,500 feet. The ice is particularly steep and broken for the first 1500 feet below the plateaus. The first Base Camp at 11,500 feet was later moved up to 13,000 feet. Camp I was 15,000 feet and Camp II at 16,500 on the edge of the plateau. The route between the last two was particularly difficult. Henri Agresti and his wife Isabelle spent 25 days at this high camp and Yves Dominoni, Lucien Agresti and Madame Renée Agresti were there for about ten. Henri and Isabelle Agresti made the following first ascents: Kohe Abs (18,373 feet) August 19; Kohe Rank (19,456 feet) August 20; P 5900 and P 5730 (19,357 and 18,799 feet) August 23; Kohe Sarkand (18,701 feet) August 24; Kohe Tirma (19,521 feet) September 4; and Kohe Setara (19,784 feet) September 6. Together with Dominoni these two made the second ascent of Kohe James (20,374 feet) by a new route from the northeast.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub