Peaks above Chhutidum Glacier. Michael H. Westmacott, his wife Sally, Dr. H. R. Thomlinson and I placed our Base Camp at the junction of the Kotgaz and Chhutidum glaciers on July 31. We had hoped to climb Lunkho West but from a reconnaissance camp at 15,000 feet on the upper Chhutidum we judged that the only feasible route was too dangerous. We then set two camps at 14,850 and 17,000 feet in the northern basin of the glacier and we all made the first ascent P 18,640 (307 on Wala map). At least two 19,000-foot peaks appeared easily accessible but bad weather and lack of time forced us to return.

Trevor H. Braham, Himalayan Club