American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan or Afghan Frontier, Hindu Kush, Lunkho Group, Khandut Valley, Wakhan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Lunkho Group, Khandut Valley, Wakhan. An expedition of the Vienna Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) was led by Dr. Fritz Grimmlinger and composed of Gerhard Haberl, Christian von der Hecken, Fritz Hintermayer, Edi Koblmüller, Gernot Kolmhofer and Gerd Pressl. They combined to a great extent with a Yugoslav expedition consisting of Draslar, Kunauer, Sazonov, Stane and Stupnik. On August 5 Austrians Grimmlinger, Haberl and Koblmüller and Yugoslavs Stupnik and Draslar made the first ascent of Lunkho-i-Dosare (22,645 feet) both east and west peaks. On August 9 all Austrians and Yugoslavs made the second ascent of Kohe Myani (18,477 feet; peak 350 on the Wala map). Haberl and Koblmüller climbed P 6450 (21,162 feet; Wala 321) on August 10. The second ascent of Lunkho-i-Hawar (22,621 feet) was made on August 13 by Austrians Grimmlinger, Pressl, Hecken and Hintermayer and Yugoslavs Sazonov and Stane and the third the next day by Haberl and Koblmüller. Grimmlinger and Pressl climbed P 6390 (20,965 feet; Wala 354) on August 18. The first ascent of P 6430 (21,096 feet; Wala 353/2) was made on August 19 by Kolmhofer and Hintermayer and repeated on successive days by Grimmlinger and Pressl and Koblmüller solo. (Is this peak now named “Meena?” The old Meena is now named Kohe Dusti on the Wala map.) The second ascent of Kohe Hevad (22,470 feet) was made by the Yugoslavs and repeated on August 20 by Grimmlinger and Pressl and on the 21st by Koblmüller solo.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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