American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Miangul Sar, Swat-Kohistan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Miangul Sar, Swat-Kohistan. Our party consisted of W. E. Donohue, leader, J. Lovatt, G. D. Hughes, B. D. Chase, Dr. M. McMahon and myself. We climbed Miangul Sar (19,673 feet), which is locally called Dingi Sar. We drove to Saidu Sherif, capital of Swat. The road now extends to Kalam and Gabral. From Gabral to Base Camp was a 2½ days’ march up the Gabral valley. On reaching a high plateau or pass, called Maidhan, Miangul Sar is at once visible to the east up the Dingi valley. Our Base Camp was placed on a high pasture in this valley. We established three further camps, the last and highest being on the glacier underneath the southwest face and immediately below the couloir which formed the start of our route. On August 2 Chase and I made an ascent by the snow couloir on the southwest face and the south ridge. Our exit from the couloir was via a 500-foot rock gully leading to the west ridge. This was loose and quite hard technically. From here the southwest ridge was straightforward with the exception of a short rock barrier, which yielded to a diagonal traverse. Descent was by the southwest ridge, straightforward except for the section mentioned. On August 6 Hughes and Lovatt ascended by the west ridge, which they followed the whole way, the previous party’s route of descent.

T. A. J. Goodfellow, Alpine Club

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