American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Shakhiokun Zom, Ghokhar Sar and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Shakhiokun Zom, Ghokhar Sar and Other Peaks, Southwest Hindu Raj. This little known region lies between the Chitral-Mastuj line in the north and Kalam in Swat on the south. Dr. Arndt Schüssler, Hilmar Sturm and I as leader approached from Gabral up the Gabral and Medan valleys over the Muri Pass (15,000 feet) to the Ushu valley, then northwest over the Kachhikhani Pass (15,650 feet) to the Kachhikhani valley, along that to the Bashkar valley and up to the Base Camp on Bashkar Lake at 12,000 feet, which we established on July 25. After ascending the Manali valley we placed Camp I at 13,600 feet and Camp II in the basin of the Haram Glacier at 16,000 feet. On July 29 all three of us followed the east ridge to the top of Harambot Zom (19,091 feet). This ridge of rotten rock would seem to be the only easy way to the top. After a difficult river crossing over the outlet to the lake we ascended the Ishporili valley to place Camp I at the glacier’s tongue at 13,450 feet. We climbed the left lateral moraine to place Camp II at 15,750 feet. That same day, August 4, Sturm and I climbed a 17,389-foot peak at the head of the Ishporili Glacier which is called Bashkargolo Zom. On the 5th we climbed a 50° slope to a saddle between Ghokhar Sar and Shakhiokun Zom, where we placed a tent at 19,000 feet. On August 9 we set out from this Camp III for Ghokhar Sar (20,503 feet) along the very sharp snowy west ridge. This was a second ascent, the first having been made in 1967 by the Italian Pinelli. (All other climbs were first ascents.) On the 10th, from the same camp, we all climbed Shakhiokun Zom (20,374 feet). After a short rock climb on the south face of Ishporili Zom, we reached the easy, broad east ridge. On the way back to camp Sturm and Dr. Schüssler climbed Ishporili Zom (18,865 feet). Our five-day return trip took us through the Thalo valley to the Thalo Pass (14,130 feet) and the Izgalogh valley, which we followed to Kasangot, where we branched off into the Bogium valley. We crossed the Bandi Pass to the Joti valley, which brought us back to Gabral.

Heinz Badura, Österreichischer Alpenverein

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