Nanga Parbat, Attempt on Rupal Face. The eleventh German expedition to the mountain, led again by Dr. Karl M. Herrligkoffer, made an attempt to climb the 15,000-foot-high Rupal or South Face of Nanga Parbat (26.660 feet). If it had been successful, it would have been the third new route on the peak. Climbing leader was Günther Schnaidt; other members were Herrligkoffer’s niece Beatrice Kaltenbach, Wilhelm Dirmhirn, Karl Golikow, Siegfried Hupfauer, Rolf Rosenzopf, Wilhelm Schloz, Peter Scholz, Günther Strobel, Wolfgang Theurer and Roland Votteler. They left Gilgit with 12 Hunza high-altitude porters and 230 coolies, getting to Base Camp at 11,700 feet in the upper Rupal valley on June 7. Camp I was at the same point, 15,425 feet, as in the 1964 attempt but Camp II was 600 feet higher than in 1964. Up to that point some 3000 feet of rope were fixed, but from Camps II to IV the whole route was continually secured with rope. Camp III was at 19,350 feet above a 1000-foot ice slope. They then climbed a steep snow ridge, mixed rock and snow, an ice couloir and an ice cliff to place Camp IV at 21,650 feet. Schloz and Scholz reached a 23,300-foot bivouac on July 9, but cold feet and unsettled weather made them turn back the next morning. A sick porter had to be evacuated from Camp IV. On the descent Strobel broke his leg at 18,000 feet. No attempt was made to climb higher.

Peaks near Koyo Zom, Hindu Raj. The Second Frattero Expedition to the Hindu Raj was led by Sadao Karibe and composed also of Teisuke Hashino and Hironori Kenmochi. After leaving Chitral on July 11, they traveled through Mastuj, the Zhopu-Rawark Pass and Kishmanja to establish Base Camp on the Pechus Glacier, hoping to climb Koyo Zom. On July 28 all three climbed a mountain of 19,350 feet and Karibe and Hashino ascended a peak of 20,350 feet, both lying east of Koyo Zom. The attempt on Koyo Zom was given up because of bad conditions. On August 8 Hashino and Kenmochi ascended the Kotalkash Glacier with seven days’ provisions. They were never seen again. Karibe went up to the Darkot Pass and returned, hoping to meet the other two at the Pechus Base Camp. A five-day search was unsuccessful. Karibe returned to Chitral on August 29 via Shah Jinali Pass of the Yarkhun Mountains and Mogram.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.