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South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Aguja Saint Exupéry

Aguja Saint Exupéry, Patagonia. An Italian expedition of the Trieste Section of the Italian Alpine Club led by Gino Buscaini and composed of Lino Caudot, Silvia Metzeltin, Walter Romano and Silvano Sinigoi reached the FitzRoy group in early February. From Base Camp near Laguna Torre at 2000 feet, they followed a rather intricate route to Camp I at 5400 feet on the north side of Techado Negro. The actual climb of the Aguja Saint Exupéry (2580 meters or 8465 feet) began at about 5500 feet. On alternating steep snow and ice and excellent rock, they ascended the east buttress, using artificial aid on a total of some 500 feet of vertical or overhanging rock. Ropes had to be fixed on two sections. A first summit attempt was launched, but after a bivouac they were forced to descend because of bad weather. A second attempt, from February 21 to 23, was successful. All five members of the group got to the top. A second bivouac had to be made on the descent. They used 350 pitons, two bolts and some wedges. The fixed ropes and most of the pitons were left on the face. The same group also made the second ascent of Cerro Mojón Rojo (7330 feet).

Evelio Echevarría C.