American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Choquetanga Group and Jachacunocollo of the Cordilla Quimsa Cruz, Sajama and Illimani

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Choquetanga Group and Jachacunocollo of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Sajama and Illimani. An expedition of Tochigi, Japan was led by Shigeo Abe and further made up of Moriyuki Kozai, Tadashi Hasegawa, Teiji Terauchi, Hitoshi Imai, Hiroshi Ono, Morio Kojima, Akira Ogino, Susumu Kojima Takehiko Kameoka, newspaper man and Señor Martínez of the Club Andino Boliviano. After leaving La Paz on May 28, they traveled to Cotacucho and continued with llamas to Base Camp at 15,800 feet beside a lake near Chatamarca. A high camp at 17,200 feet was pitched on June 3 below San Felipe in the Choquetanga group. San Felipe (18,700 feet) and P 5680 (18,635 feet) were climbed on June 5 by Hasegawa, Imai and Martínez. San Felipe was again climbed on June 6 by Abe and Ogino, who, joined by Terauchi, repeated the ascent of P 5680. P 5680 was again climbed on June 7 by Kozai and Kojima. Imai and Ono climbed San Lorenzo (18,373 feet) on June 7. On the 9th Kozai and Terauchi climbed P 5650 (18,537 feet) and on the 10th Abe, Imai, Ono and Ogino climbed P 5730 (18,799 feet). Hasekawa and M. Kojima climbed P 5750 (18,865 feet)* on June 11. They then moved their base to Chejñacota (Green Lake) at 16,200 feet below Jachacunocollo. High Camp was placed at 18,375 feet. On June 18 Terauchi, Imai, Ono and Ogino climbed Jachacunocollo (19,521 feet). After a week in La Paz they traveled to Sajama Base Camp at 14,700 feet and made a high camp at 16,500 feet. Sajama (21,391 feet) was climbed on July 4 by Abe, Terada, Ono, Ogino and Ronny Ibatta, president of the Club Andino Boliviano and on July 7 by Kozai, Hasegawa, Imai, M. Kojima and Martínez. Base Camp (14,650 feet) on Illimani was established on July 22, Camp I (17,750 feet) on July 24 and Camp II (18,650 feet). On July 26 Abe and Terauchi climbed Illimani Sur (21,201 feet) and M. Kojima and Ogino Illimani Norte (21,135 feet). Imai and Ono traversed from the south peak to the north peak via Illimani Central on the 26 and 27. Kozai and Hasegawa climbed Illimani Sur on July 28.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

* P 5680 is a mile north of San Felipe, while San Lorenzo is a mile east of San Felipe. P 5650 lies three miles southeast of San Felipe across a pass. Along the ridge which runs southeast from there lie P 5750 and then P 5730. The latter lies west of Cotacucho and south of Chatamarca lakes.

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