American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Other Ranges, Salcantay and Soray, Cordillera Vilcabamba, and Huascarán, Pisco, and Yanapaccha Norte, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Salcantay and Soray, Cordillera Vilcabamba, and Huascarán, Pisco, and Yanapaccha Norte, Cordillera Blanca. The Aichiken Mountaineering Association expedition was led by Yukihiko Kato. Other members were Hideo Kato, Hitoo Makino, Isao Asahi, Noriaki Soga, Horishi Yamamoto and Matsuo Takeda. They first climbed in the Cordillera Vilcabamba. They established Base Camp at the southern foot of Salcantay at 14,750 feet on June 28. It took five days to establish Camp I on the south ridge at 17,400 feet. On July 5 and 6 several feet of snow fell. On the 7th they began to climb again but it took three days to climb a 250-foot 80° ice couloir to get them two-fifths of the way up the terrible ridge. They climbed 350 feet of Chacraraju-like ridge to put Camp II at 18,375 feet on July 12. Camp III was at 18,950 feet in a snow cave. On July 17 both Katos, Soga and Asahi completed this new route, the south ridge, of Salcantay (19,951 feet). They used 6000 feet of fixed rope, 50 ice pitons, 15 rock pitons and 70 snow pickets. It took them 16 days to make a new route on Soray (Humantay) (18,961 feet), the south ridge. Base Camp was at 13,500 feet, Camp I at 16,250 feet and Camp II at 17,500 feet. Y. Kato, Soga, Makino and Yamamoto reached the summit on August 4. They used 5000 feet of fixed rope, 61 ice pitons, 20 rock pitons, 64 snow pickets.

They then moved to the Cordillera Blanca. They were on Huascarán from August 26 to September 2. H. Kato and Takeda climbed the south peak (22,205 feet) and Y. Kato, Makino and Yamamoto climbed the north peak (21,834 feet) on August 31 from a common Camp II at 19,350 feet. Y. Kato and Makino climbed Pisco (c. 19,000 feet) on September 8 via the central ridge with a bivouac at 17,700 feet. Soga and Yamamoto climbed Yanapaccha Norte (17,651 feet) on September 7.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

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