American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Other Ranges, Peaks near Huagaruncho

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Peaks near Huagaruncho. Fernard R. and Francois Rebeyrol, Mme Monique Bruhat, Mlle Claudine Tesa and I were a group of friends who wanted to climb not too far from Lima, for we had but two weeks in July. Therefore from the village of Huachón we climbed in the mountains south, northwest and west of Huagaruncho. We first climbed a gendarme 150 feet below the summit of Jancahuay, just north of it, but we did not reach the top of the peak. Then moving northwest of Huagaruncho we made two first ascents on a ridge five miles northwest of that peak but not attached to it by any ridge. All of us French with the Peruvians Emilio Angeles and Simeon Natividad climbed P 5140 (16,864 feet) on July 21 by its northeast face and the next day all except Mme Bruhat and the Peruvians ascended P 5180 (16,995 feet), the next peak along the ridge to the northwest. The final tower was difficult. On July 24 all the French and Simeón Natividad climbed P 5160 (16,929 feet), two miles from Huagaruncho on its west ridge. We climbed the northwest face almost entirely on snow and ice.

René de Milleville, Club Alpin Français

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