American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Aquilpo and Other Peaks

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1969

Aquilpo and Other Peaks, Cordillera Blanca. The Tokyo Dental College expedition was led by Fujio Watanabe and Yuko Yoda and was also composed of Seigo Matsushima, Kiyoji Kato, Katsuyasu Yamaguchi, Masaru Sakai and Siochiro Asanami. From Vicos on June 21 they began reconnaissance up the Quebrada Honda towards Aquilpo. On June 28 they established Base Camp in the Quebrada Cancahua at 14,425 feet. Advance Camp was at 16,400 feet at the site of an old mining hut. On July 2 Kato, Sakai and Peruvian porter Pablo Morales made the third ascent of Aquilpo Sur (18,111 feet) by the east ridge. The first attempt on unclimbed Aquilpo Sur on July 5 failed in bad weather and the second one, on the northeast ridge, on July 8 also failed. On July 12 Matsushima, Yoda and Yamaguchi made the first ascent of Aquilpo Sur (18,242 feet), climbing the east face. This ended the first phase; Marcelino Morales took the place of Pablo Morales as porter. On July 23 they occupied Base Camp in the Quebrada Llanganuco at 14,450 feet. From Camp II at 18,000 feet on August 4 Asanami and Sakai climbed Pisco Este (c. 19,000 feet) via the south face. On the 9th Yoda, Matsushima, Kato, Yamaguchi, Asanami and Marcelino Morales climbed Yanapaccha Norte (17,651 feet) via the north ridge. A month of scientific work, mainly dental research, occupied them from mid-August to mid-September.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club and A.A.C.

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