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South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán

Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca. The Chileans Mario Puig del Río and Claudio Lucero Martínez reached the summit of Huascarán on August 5, having climbed the normal route.

Urus Este and Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca. We made two ascents of Urus Este (17,782 feet) during the third week of July, first Dick Webster and I and then Bill Briggs and Mike Daugherty. We followed what must be the standard route up the south col to the ridge between the peak and the southeast spire and then onto the corniced ice ridge to the summit. This beautiful climb was moderately difficult and yet reasonably short; we were three days on the mountain, one in bad weather. Carrying 21 days of food, we moved to Huascarán. Advancing slowly, we put Camp IV in the Garganta after eleven days. Jim Foote and I descended, having frostbitten our feet. Dick Webster, Bill Briggs and Mike Daugherty were confined to their tent at Camp IV for three or four days by bad weather. Finally on the first clear day, August 2, they reached the summit at 6:30 p.m.

Curtis W. Stark, Riverside (California) Andean Expedition